Monday, August 18, 2008

Question: Where do all the Serbs go for summer Vacation?

Answer: Montenegro
Another Question: Why does a former Yugoslavian territory have an Italian name?
Another Answer: It means "black mountain" and comes from the age when Venetians ruled the area in the Middle Ages.

So, using this information as a backdrop, let me explain our trip to Montenegro . . . . First of all, Montenegro is the world's newest country having separated from Serbia in June 2006 - Historically, Serbs go there on vacation as it is very beautiful and they used to be part of the same country: Serbia-Montenegro, and before that Yugoslavia. Little did we know that in August, every single Serbian man, woman, and child is there to enjoy some seaside action.

To get there, we took a bus from Sarajevo through the most incredibly windy road that snaked through sheer cliffs and a rainstorm. We came upon a dam - reminiscent to me of Lake Powell - not that it looked like the Southwestern US at all, but amazing natural beauty abounded. Green trees in forests on high mountains. We were headed for a beach town called Herzig Novi - a lesser known beach town not as frequented by tourists (or so we thought). After passing through the "see and be seen" beach town called Budva - we ended up in a terrible traffic jam. After 20 minutes we realized that the way to Herzig Novi involved a 20 minute ferry that the bus was waiting to board. I, not being a good bus or boat traveler at all (severe motion sickness can occur, and has in the past), I had drugged myself up on some amazing tablets my friend gets from England, called Kwells. Therefore, sitting on a bus, that was on a ferry, that was on the sea proved not quite comfortable but bearable. We got out of the bus and caught some fresh air before our boat landed. Some lovely views from that ferry!

We finally got to Herzig Novi . . . . we trudged with backpacks in tow through the picturesque little town (there are some ups and downs among the streets there!), only to hear travel agency after travel agency say, "There are no rooms anywhere tonight . . . not one. . . . everything is booked!" Well, having seen some little old ladies and men at the bus station trying to scoop up backpackers . . . we headed back there. The little old people seemed to have gone back home to bed, as we couldn't see anyone trying to "sell" a room in their house.

Finally, I got up the courage to speak in my limited Russian to a woman who was sitting beside us on a bench. "I'm looking for a room", I think I said. She whistled across the bus lot, "Oy, Zhilka!" Another lady, with a bit of alcohol on her breath came and arranged for us to stay across the street in her own flat. We agreed on 30 euros for the night (she could have really asked for the moon and we'd have paid it!). So, we slept in a Soviet-style flat with a great view, if you could see past the laundry, of the Adriatic Sea.

After rising, we decided to head out of crowded beach land - not before snapping some photos, of course. We spent the day in a fabulous ancient Venetian old town of sorts in the town of Kotor. There is no beach there, but the old buildings and ruins are a true treat for any photographer. The heat was a bit overbearing and many people found relief in an old but functioning fountain soaking their faces and splashing their whole bodies with ice cold well water.

Overall, Montenegro is a unique place to say you've been to . . . but don't go in August - too crowded, too hot, and too much traffic!

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